How We Started Buying Health by Function?
- Jul 15
- 4 min read
LOST IN TRANSLATION: LIFE OF A JAPANESE GIRL IN ITALY
One day, I came across Yakult in an Italian supermarket.
I stopped in my tracks. ‘They have Yakult in Italy?’ While studying the gut microbiome at the University of Gastronomic Sciences, I realised that the variety of probiotic drinks and functional yoghurts found in Japanese supermarkets and convenience stores is unusual internationally. A scene I took for granted in Japan seemed rather strange abroad.
I had been influenced by a friend in Japan who insisted that Yakult 1000 would prevent a hangover. For a while, I would diligently stop by a convenience store on my way home after a night out and drink one. Improving sleep quality. Reducing stress. Lowering visceral fat. Supporting immune function. Relieving hay fever symptoms.
Each product presents a different role, far beyond the simple claim of being 'good for the gut'.
The other day, I visited a university in the Netherlands.
The Netherlands is known for its strong interest in sustainability and health. In the university canteen, the refrigerated display was filled with skyr, a traditional Icelandic dairy product.
The first spoonful immediately reminded me of the vanilla yoghurt I had loved as a child in Japan. I was amused that two distant dairy products, on opposite sides of the world, could trigger the same memory.The packaging promised 'high protein', 'low fat', 'no added sugar' and 'lactose-free'. Yet the ingredients list also included cream, modified starch, pectin, flavouring and sweeteners. Despite being presented as traditional, it is carefully designed for modern consumers’ demands. At first, I thought it was entirely different from Japan’s functional yoghurts. Perhaps, however, they are more alike than they seem. Japan sells 'sleep' and 'stress relief'. Skyr sells 'high protein' and 'lactose-free'. The language may be different, but both divide health into individual functions and sell each one as a product.
Of course, there are historical reasons why this market developed in Japan.
In 1991, Japan became the first country in the world to introduce a regulatory system for Foods for Specified Health Uses, commonly known as Tokuho. Under this, the government officially recognised foods with specific health benefits. Japan also has a long-established culture of eating fermented foods such as miso, soy sauce and pickles as part of everyday life. Another important influence was Dr Minoru Shirota, the founder of Yakult, who promoted the idea of preventive medicine: protecting health before illness develops. As a result, lactic acid bacteria in Japan have evolved from something associated simply with digestion into products presented as solutions to a wide range of concerns, including sleep, stress and immunity. It is rare to find a market where health functions are divided into such specific categories.
The gut is often described as the 'second brain' and is an important organ for our overall health.
At the same time, some drinks marketed as good for the gut contain considerable amounts of sugar or sweeteners. We consume beneficial bacteria, while also consuming sugar. It can feel a little like pressing the accelerator and the brake at the same time.
In recent years, there has also been growing discussion about whether emulsifiers and artificial sweeteners may affect the gut microbiome and the intestinal barrier. Another concern is that these are consumed in liquid form. Sugars in liquids are absorbed more quickly than those in solid foods and may cause sharper fluctuations in blood glucose levels. Something we drink for the sake of our health may therefore create a different kind of risk. According to my Taiwanese classmate, Yakult is sold in large bottles in Taiwan, and excessive consumption is sometimes discussed as one possible contributor to obesity. Health foods can, at times, appear to contradict the very idea of health itself.
According to one of my American classmates, sugary fizzy drinks have recently fallen out of favour among young people in the United States. In their place, kombucha and prebiotic sodas have become increasingly popular. The focus has shifted from consuming 'good bacteria' to feeding them with dietary fibre. Even living in Europe, I see kombucha almost everywhere.
Yet many of these products also contain sweeteners and other processed ingredients. The drinks changed, but the idea remains: that health can be solved by drinking the right product.
I think a much larger structure lies behind these phenomena.
Ultra-processed foods disrupt the gut microbiome and contribute to lifestyle-related diseases and obesity. Functional foods are then consumed as a solution. People pay for expensive medicines, join gyms or buy diet and fitness devices. The problem and its solution are sold together, creating a cycle. I do not think this is simply a trend. It is a system embedded in the modern food industry. Walking through the supermarket, I began to notice something.
Every product promotes a single strength. High protein. Fat-free. Low sugar. Probiotics. Fibre. Calcium. The market turns individual nutrients and health functions into products, each competing to claim its own corner of the nutritional landscape. What it cannot sell is the combination. But health was never meant to be determined by any one of these things alone. It depends on what we eat. What we eat it with. How much we eat. And the way we live. Health emerges only from the balance between all of these. The responsibility for putting those pieces together ultimately rests with us, the consumers. We are surrounded by more 'healthy' products than ever before. Yet we should stop searching for the next health product and rethink our diet as a whole. Gut health is, by its very nature, far more complex than any single product. It is shaped by our entire food environment. It is not about choosing the right product, but thinking carefully about how we want to live. After all, it is the accumulation of everyday meals that shapes our health. Follow our journey @movimento.metropolitano.
